María del Río

María del Río is situated in Puerta del Ángel, on the other side of the Manzanares, right next to the Mercado de Tirso de Molina – an area where some of Madrid’s most interesting new venues are currently emerging. Behind the restaurant is the Sardinian Andrea Pirastu, who has lived in Madrid for many years and has previously been involved in projects such as Aió, Casa dei Pazzi and La Bruta. María del Río is his own venture and is named after his grandmother María, who lived to be over 100. The interior fits the concept perfectly: plenty of concrete, stainless steel, exposed ventilation ducts and a huge communal stone table, complemented by that intense blue on the chairs, doors and throughout the décor. Almost a touch brutalist, yet light and airy. Pirastu calls the concept ‘bar-mesa’ – a wine bar, restaurant and neighbourhood hub all in one. The menu is small and strongly produce-focused, with a surprising abundance of vegetables. The warm olives with meat jus, honey and lemon sound excellent, as do the crispy potato millefeuille with Idiazábal and Ibérico pancetta, or the cauliflower with chickpeas, yoghurt and spices. There’s also a selection of Italian cheeses and charcuterie, along with a beautifully curated wine list featuring small-scale producers. María del Río is exactly the sort of place that makes it worth venturing out of the centre of Madrid.