L’Arlatan

It could hardly be more eccentric. So opulent and yet so harmonious. Who wouldn’t nod in agreement when the shrewd hotel manager speaks of a ‘total work of art’ as he leads us through L’Arlatan and up to the suite on the second floor? Even the bathroom is a riot of colour that continues into the bedroom: brightly coloured tiles in opulent floral and geometric patterns cover the floors and walls. There are a total of two million of them at L’Arlatan – all handmade and crafted to the hotel’s own designs. In fact, almost nothing here is off-the-peg. Even the wardrobes were carved specifically for the hotel and then painted by artists; added to this are specially designed furniture, carpets, fabrics and the magnificent lamps produced by a 3D printer. Despite this incredible abundance, the whole thing feels astonishingly natural. Behind the project is the art-obsessed Hoffmann-La-Roche heiress and collector Maja Hoffmann, to whom Arles also owes the Hôtel du Cloître and the LUMA Foundation. Together with the Cuban-American artist Jorge Pardo, she has spent years planning the historic townhouse down to the smallest detail and transforming it into a wild, cosmopolitan cosmos. One moment you’re reminded of Morocco, the next of Mexico, Mediterranean palazzi or a psychedelic Beatles album cover from the 1970s. In between, the centuries-old walls and archaeological traces of the house keep reappearing. Particularly lovely is the leafy courtyard with a pool, around which the restaurant, bar and lounges are arranged. Anyone who isn’t afraid of bold shapes and colours – and can make do with a bath instead of a shower – is sure to sleep soundly here beneath the fantastic light fittings. Ideally after some homemade ravioli, a Negroni at the bar and one last glance at the courtyard. A hotel you’re guaranteed never to mistake for any other.